Bonsai FAQ

The word bonsai (according to my Japanese friends) is pronounced as follows: "BONE", as in a bone in your arm and "SIGH" as in a long sigh.

The word literally means a plant (usually a tree or shrub) grown in a tray or dish. Growing trees in pots began in Egypt about 4000 years ago, mostly for practical reasons, mobility, and convenience. The Greeks, Babylonians, Persians, and Hindus copied the technique. The Chinese were the first to plant trees in pots for aesthetic purposes, about 200 AD. The art of bonsai then moved to Japan with the monks, who also brought Buddhism, in the 6th and 7th centuries. This data is supported by a scroll from Japan's Kamakura period (1192-1333) describing life in the Heian period (794-1191).*

Bonsai as we now know it was perfected in Japan.

The original bonsai trees were usually collected, already dwarfed by nature. Today, however, it is probably better to allow such specimens to stay where they are. In many locations, collecting them in the wild is against the law. In others, the chance of finding a suitable specimen is almost zero.

One common misconception is that a bonsai is a specific type of tree. Yes, some trees are more frequently bonsaied than others, but bonsai can be made from almost any woody stemmed tree or bush species. Some of the more classic bonsai are Japanese Black Pine, 5 needle pine, Sargents Juniper, and Japanese maples. In the past 20 or so years, a great many species not previously accepted as bonsai have also joined the list. Some tropical trees, and plants, such as weeping willow and Jade, are just two.

Over the years, techniques have evolved which allow the grower to change the height and direction of the tree's growth, and in some cases to dwarf the foliage as well as the plant. Today, bonsai is an art form, a living sculpture. There are certain classic or traditional forms that can be found and followed, but the basic rule of thumb for personal bonsai is 'If you like the way it looks, it's a good bonsai'.

*(From The Masters Book of Bonsai)

Opinion 2) The question should really be: Should I start from scratch with a small seedling, or with a plant that is larger? Neither will give you "instant bonsai". The larger will have a thicker trunk from the beginning, and thus will look "almost like a tree" sooner. A younger plant gives you greater freedom to choose a shape for training. You get to practice different methods on different size plants: the larger lends itself to cutting down, the smaller to cutting away to encourage other growth.

(And by all means, if you see a shaped tree you really want, with the right price, that looks healthy and undamaged and is of a species you know is hardy or is of a sort you already have (and know you can take care of) -- it is OK to buy it.)

Opinion 3) Brian Corll writes: I would recommend that if you can afford to do so, you purchase a tree that has had some training _and_ purchase several species of trees appropriate for your geographical location that can be trained exclusively by you. The purchase of the former will give you something that has the appearance of a more finished tree and can become the centerpiece of your growing collection. Purchasing the latter will give you material to learn from. Keep in mind that there is no such thing as "instant bonsai". Development of bonsai material takes years. Don't be discouraged by that fact. Years are going to pass anyway. You might as well be growing a potential masterpiece in the meantime!

Small concave cutter
Diagonal wire cutters
Scissors (Good moustache scissors or small sewing scissors)
Chop stick (They are cheap and useful)

You may also want to give some thought to watering "tools". If you have only one or two trees, a simple spray bottle, and cautious use of a common garden hose should be suitable for a while. If you get more involved you will probably want to get a .5 gallon per minute fogger head for your hose. Indoors, you can use a "normal" watering can. if you want a finer stream, one person uses a common button hot glued to the end of the spout. There is also a small fine spray "rosette" head which is designed to attach to most common plastic consumer bottles. If it is difficult to find, you may have to look at a bonsai store, or in a bonsai catalog.

An excellent American bonsai potter is Keystone in Pennsylvania. If they don't have a pot that fits your needs, they'll probably take a commission.

Keep in mind that a bonsai should not be moved into a bonsai pot until it is nearing the end of its initial training period. Putting immature material into a bonsai pot too soon will delay development of the tree.Many people keep developing material either in the black plastic nursery pots they came in or in ordinary clay flower pots (my personal favorite). Azalea pots or bulb pans are especially useful, and for developing pines and other hardy material that will be kept outdoors all year around in cold climates, you may want to consider using the heavy lipped cylinder pots found in most garden centers, as they are more resistant to cracking from the cold.

There are also plastic pots that look good until you are very close, available from several of the suppliers.

Another alternative is "DIY" (Do It Yourself) pots. There are several ways to make your own pots at home. Pots can be made from wood if you have the appropriate woodworking tools available. Recently I have seen demonstrations of casting pots from a combination of cement, peat, vermiculite, and concrete re- inforcing fibers. This yields a pot which looks like a rock, and is surprisingly light weight. See section on hypertufa for details.

One other solution which has been used by more than one person is to use a plain red clay "drip pan" from a larger pot. You will need to make a hole or some holes in the bottom for drainage. These can also be painted to cover the fact that it is a simple clay pot.

There are numerous other options. Scout out yard/garage/estate sales. (These can also be a source of trained trees, but, in the case of estate sales, be careful. If the grower is the one whose estate is being sold, there is a good chance the trees are not well because they were not properly cared for after the owner passed away.) Check for "continuing education classes in your area for pottery classes and make your own!

A good reference is the Ortho book, available where most Ortho products are sold. This book is a big help in diagnosing your tree's ills and in selecting an appropriate treatment.

Trees are signaled by shortened daylight in autumn that cold is approaching. Aboveground, the tree protects itself by covering its buds and needles that will remain during the winter with a waxy secretion to retard water loss. When temperatures drop, the permeability of cell walls increases, allowing some water to leave the cells, thus preventing freezing water from damaging the cells when it expands. Roots are protected in nature by being embedded in the thermal mass of earth, often extending well below the frost line. The roots of a bonsai, confined within a shallow pot, are vulnerable to cold in a way that a natural plant's are not.

When temperatures average below 35 F (2 C), trees become totally dormant: there is no growth aboveground and light is not needed. Above that, light is beneficial. In either case, they will continue to need water, but at a reduced rate; continue to water when the soil tells you it is needed, but don't bother watering when the soil is completely frozen.

With a bonsai exposed to a cold winter climate, you should be concerned about the same things the tree is: the minimum termperature the species can tolerate, too rapid freezing, the roots, and dryness.

You should be aware of the kind of minimum temperature your tree can tolerate. Retailers or books can provide this information. In the US, hardiness is often given in terms of the USDA Zone system for landscape plants, based on average annual minimum temperatures:

Zone 1 Below -50 F ( Below -46 C)
Zone 2 -50 to -40 F (-46 to -40 C)
Zone 3 -40 to -30 F (-40 to -34 C)
Zone 4 -30 to -20 F (-34 to -29 C)
Zone 5 -20 to -10 F (-29 to -23 C)
Zone 6 -10 to 0 F (-23 to -18 C)
Zone 7 0 to 10 F (-18 to -12 C)
Zone 8 10 to 20 F (-12 to -7 C)
Zone 9 20 to 30 F ( -7 to -1 C)
Zone 10 30 to 40 F ( -1 to 4 C)
Zone 11 above 40 F, guaranteed frost free.

Too rapid freezing can be combatted by insulating the tree with mulch or snow, or by putting it in an enclosure that traps air. Happily, these measures also defeat the drying winds of winter. Roots are helped by these, too, but they are protected better by putting the plants into the ground. You can bury the tree in its pot, but beware that freezing water can crack a pot. If it would be a problem, you can separate the bonsai soil from the earth with some shredded bark or similar material. Keep the bonsai out of the sun, for rapid variations of temperature cause most of the problems. An area out of the wind, such as near a building or a hedge, provides added protection. With a little more effort, you can create a cold frame for even more protection. This is small greenhouse-like structure that will let in light and some heat and keep cold winds away. Further protection can be achieved by placing it over an excavated pit, perhaps extending below the frost line (then called a sun pit). On warm days, open up the cold frame to keep the plants cool and ventilated. If your solution also provides an ideal winter home for wee beasties, you should consider enclosing the plants in screening or laying out poisonous rodent bait nearby; combat mold by providing a little more ventilation and reducing water. Heavy snow or ice can shape a bonsai in ways you may not desire; covering with branches or firmer structures can protect them.

You have an outdoor bonsai, but limited access to the outdoors? That's a problem. If you can't use a friend's land, you might be able to use a garage, porch, or balcony to get cold temperatures for your bonsai. You may be able to fashion an enclosed space near a cracked open window to induce partial dormancy, but watch out for condensation and large heat bills. Some people have put their bonsai in a spare refrigerator for the winter. But be careful if you do this as refrigerators are about as dry as the sahara.

Don't let these suggestions stifle your creativity; you know the problems to be solved.

Large bonsai (OMONO BONSAI) - "The maximum size is about four feet tall, not including the pot, and is termed as two man, three man, and four man lifting size. If larger and taller than four feet, it is called a HACHI-UYE, and is mainly displayed in a yard or for temporary display in a large building."

Other sizes he mentions:

2. Medium size bonsai (CHUMONO BONSAI) - 1-1/2 to 3 ft.

3. One hand lifting size bonsai (KATADE-MOCHI BONSAI) - 8 to 15 inches

4. Small size bonsai (KOMONO BONSAI) - 4 or 5 to 7 inches

5. Palm size bonsai (MAME BONSAI) - 3 or 4 fit on an average hand

For beginners, I would suggest sizes 2 or 3. Keep in mind that large pots can get quite heavy, and that they must occasionally be lifted and moved. An episode of low back strain can considerably hamper your bonsai and other activities, so be cautious.

Howard Hayakawa

The formulation of a good general soil mix or one for a particular species is a subject that will set off huge arguments among bonsai growers. Growing conditions vary widely, as do growing techniques, so that the choice of a soil mix depends as much on the local climate and the habits of the grower as it does on the preferences of individual species of plants.

The idea is to create a balance of moisture- and nutrient-holding capacity that is appropriate for the individual tree, location, climate, and watering regimen. There are three basic components to a soil mix: organic material to provide nutrients which may be supplemented by fertilizer, water-retaining material such as Turface (fired clay particles), and drainage material such as granite grit, to allow excess water to drain freely from the pot and avoid suffocation of the root system. Any one or two of these components may be eliminated as desired or required. There are pines growing in nothing but drainage material, and tropicals growing in pure organic material. Talk to local growers about what works best for them for particular species, and inquire as to their watering habits and siting of their bonsai to see how their soil mixes might work for you.

Rule of thumb?! How about the rule of digit? It is interesting to say some thing until you are blue in the face and then have someone new ask the same questions not knowing (no blame) what has been said in the past.

The Sandy Vrooman method of judging if a plant needs water includes use of your index finger as a guide for soil moisture testing. Stick your index finger into the soil. If you feel moisture when you are one knuckle deep, you are ok (if you are measuring in a 3 inch deep or deeper pot). If there is no moisture at the second knuckle, you and your plant may be in trouble. There are variations to any theory. If you have a plant with excessive surface roots (like an azalea) you may want to alter the knuckle deplth to correspond. With drought tolerant plants like olives you may want to use a longer finger.

Sandy "Knuckles" Vrooman